This project was one of the most complicated garments I have undertaken. I recently started challenging myself to make clothing that I want in my wardrobe, not just patterns that look easy to make. So, we have in one garment my first time sewing a proper collar, yoke, placket, and curved hem. But look! I actually made it through and completed a wearable shirt!
So on to the details of the project!
Pattern: Kalle Shirt by Closet Case Patterns I made view B in size 18. For reference, my measurements are 43" bust, 39" waist, 50" hip.
First off, I really enjoyed the construction of this pattern and the finished result it creates. All of the collar, placket, yoke, and sleeves have the raw seams enclosed, which leaves minimal serging and a very polished inside. Close Case also has an amazing sewalong series on their blog which was super helpful (I probably used the blog posts more than the written instructions included with the pattern).
I did run into a few issues with the fit. The pattern suggests you choose your size based just on your bust measurement, as the rest of the garment is cut more loosely. However, this did not work for me. I have a hip that is about 8 inches bigger that by bust (my hip measurement is 3 inches bigger that the biggest Closet Case size), so there was some major pulling/tightness around my hips. I was able to alter my shirt by raising the side hem about 4 inches to free up the hip area. The sleeves were also laughable too small, so I just chopped those off and finished the sleeves with a bias tape binding.
Fabric and Notions: Free Spirit presents Cool Breeze by Jane Sassaman and plastic buttons. Both from Stonemountain and Daughter.
This fabric is just a mid-weight quilting cotton, but what really drew my to it was the print. I bought 2 yards without a project in mind because the pink and yellow colorway and the hand-drawn quality of the "plaid" was the perfect combination of illustration and technical textiles. Because this is a mid-weight quilting cotton it was extremely easy to sew, however it does look a bit stiff on the body, especially in the back box pleat. I also made no attempt at pattern matching; that is another challenge for another project.
I am overall very pleased with my finished Kalle shirt. The combination of long silhouette and bright print make for a very striking garment! I will definitely be revisiting this pattern with a wider hip, bigger sleeves, and a more drapey fabric.